Recently I've been revisiting www.rokkorfiles.com a lot. Loads of interesting info on old Minolta stuff including manuals etc. The sad thing is that some of those links end up in dead-ends. Sites come and go and thus WaybackMachine to the rescue and I was able to recover this great feature guide from Dick Sullivan anno 2004.

The Minolta SRT series

The SRT series began in 1966 with the introduction of the SRT 101. Minolta produced certain models of their SLRs under different names for the US, European and Asian markets. An example of this, is the SRT 102 was sold as the SRT 303 in Europe and SRT Super in Asia, with only some occasional minor differences. They continued this practice into the Third Generation "X" series SLRs as well. To further complicate matters, Minolta produced a series of SRTs for sale in department stores, such as J.C. Penny and K-Mart, with the MC and SC designation;. The SRT MC is similar to a SRT 101, the SRT MCII - a SRT 201, The SRT SC - a SRT 100, the SRT SCII - a SRT 200. There may be other variants, but these are the only ones that I am aware of at this time. Be aware that Minolta added and/or removed some features during a model's production life.

Minolta SRT Features at a Glance

Based Only on These Points, the models would rank as follows:

1. (8.0 points) SRT 202, SRT 303b, SRT 500
2. (7.0 points) SRT 102, SRT 303, SRT Super
3. (5.5 points) SRT 201, SRT MCII
4. (4.5 points) SRT 101b, SRT 101
5. (3.5 points) SRT 100b, SRT 100x, SRT SC, SRT SCII
6. (3.0 points) SRT 200
7. (1.0 points) SRT 100

Desirability points are awarded for the total number of features. All Minolta SRTs are fine usable Classic Cameras and some of these features may not be desired by all. A perfect rating would be 9.0. Bear in mind, that some features were dropped or added during a particular model run, such as the Mirror Lockup on the SRT 102 and the Hot Shoe on the SRT-200. Other factors should be considered.

Features

Shutter Speeds: Most SRTs have shutter Speeds of B, 1, 2, 4, 8, 15, 30,60, 125, 250, 500, 1000. A top shutter of 1/1000 second, is a very desirable feature for high speed subjects and very bright scenes. Our modern fast films make this top speed a requirement for all around use. The top speed of 1/500 second on the SRT100 limits the use of high speed films, to about 400 speed, in bright conditions. This can, of course, be overcome, by using neutral density filters or selecting a slower film.

Self Timer: The self Timer used in the SRT line is a purely mechanical device allowing a delayed shutter firing of about 10 to 15 seconds. A self timer is seldom used feature, however it can enhance sharpness when used with a tripod, or allow you to get into your own picture. The self timer lever is often found to be sticky or inoperable due to non-use. A shutter cable release might be a better choice, for less camera shake, although you'd need a very long one, to get in your own shot.

Mirror Lockup: The Mirror Lockup feature allows for the mirror to be locked into the upright position to eliminate noise and vibration from the mirror cycle, during shutter firing. Its switch is located on the right side of the lens mount. This feature is another aid to sharper images, using a tripod or not. It is particularly favored by astro-photographers to eliminate camera shake, from the mirror action, when used with a very long lens or a telescope. It also makes your SRT much quieter, useful for wildlife or candid shots.

DOF Preview: The control for the DOF Preview is button. located on the lower right side of the lens mount. This feature allows for an actual depth of field preview of the picture in the viewfinder, by stopping the lens down to the selected aperture before shooting. Depth of field control, can render your otherwise, plain snap-shots, into very pleasing images. Some earlier Minolta MC lenses had a built-in depth of field preview lever.

Visible in Viewfinder: Two types of viewfinders were found on the SRT. One had a small window in the front of the prism housing that allowed the aperture setting of the lens to be seen in the viewfinder. All SRTs, except the SRT 100 and 200, had the selected shutter speed displayed in the viewfinder. Having the selected shutter and aperture visible in the viewfinder is a very convenient feature for ease of use. It eliminates the necessity for checking the top and front of the camera prior to shooting each frame.

Multi-Exposure: This feature works by depressing the rewind lock button before advancing the film. The film does not advance and the shutter is cocked for another shot on the same frame of film. The ability to shoot multiple images on the same frame is a rarely used feature, except by the most creative of users. I have seen some pretty impressive photos using this feature.

Hot Shoe: The Hot Shoe replaced the Cold Shoe of the earlier SRTs. It had wiring to a connection with the shutter flash synchronization circuit. Since a lot of flash units do not have connections for a PC cord, this feature can be vital for some users. Remember that keeping the contacts clean is very important.

Memo Holder: Some of the later SRTs had a small frame on the camera back for storing a film box tab. This feature is often under rated. Some of us have been known to forget the type and speed of film loaded in our SRT. Having the film box tab at hand, helps eliminate exposure mistakes.

Safe Film Indicator: Later SRTs had a window just below the film advance lever. This window would display a red flag that advanced to the right, signaling that the film was indeed advancing. Having this feature could have prevented, the loss of a whole roll of images, when the film tab slipped out of the take-up spool, on an assignment. I can think of nothing, more depressing than to find that the film didn't advance for all the pictures, you just shot on a roll of film. Noticing that the film counter has started to go around twice, is very troubling indeed. There is a work-around for the lack of this feature. When you load your film, lightly turn the rewind crank in the clockwise direction until it tightens. This will remove any slack in the film inside the canister. Watch for the crank to turn when you advance the film, signifying that the film is advancing as it should.

All SRTs have the following features:

Type: 35mm single-lens reflexes with match-needle/manual exposure control.

Lens mount: Minolta SLR bayonet, 54 degree rotating angle; coupling for full-aperture metering and automatic diaphragm control with MC or MD mount lenses.

Light-metering: Full-aperture TTL type with overlapping readings taken by 2 CdS cells mounted on pentaprism and CLC circuit to provide optimum exposure in both flat- and most contrast-lighted situations; stop-down metering also possible.

Power: One 1.35V mercury cell, PX-625 or equivalent, contained in camera base. These mercury cell are getting hard to find since being outlawed in most countries. Conversions to modern batteries do exist.

Exposure control: Turning shutter-speed dial and/or lens aperture ring to align follower with meter needle visible in finder yields proper exposure according to metering system indication at the film speed set.

Shutter: Horizontal-traverse, mechanically controlled, rubberized silk cloth, focal-plane type.

Mirror: Oversize quick-return type.

Finder: Eye-level pentaprism type showing 94% of 24x36mm film-frame area.

Magnification: 0.83X with 50mm lens focused at infinity. A 58mm lens, gives a 1X magnification at infinity, thereby producing a life size view to the user as with the naked eye. The Minolta MC 58mm f 1.4, Rokkor-PF lens is the perfect, fast, high quality, sharp, normal lens for any SRT. They can be had, for around $50.00 on eBay. This lens is my favorite lens. The f1.2 version is a great and beautiful lens also, but typically sells for about three times the price, and is not that much better. Most pictures are shot at around f 8, so the main advantage of a real fast lens is the brightness of the image in the viewfinder.

Flash sync.: X or FP delay.

Film advance: Lever type, single- or multiple-stroke, 150 degree winding angle after 20 degree engaged movement to allow offsetting from body. Advancing-type exposure counter resets automatically when camera back is opened. The black plastic tip of the lever is sometimes missing but is only a cosmetic issue.

Dimensions: 145 x 47.5 x 95mm (5-3/4 x 1-7/8 x 3-3/4 in.) without lens.

Professional Models

Most, if not all, Minolta SRTs were available in a Professional Black finish. They all command a premium price, although they were just painted brass, and somewhat cheaper to produce. I have never understood why a black camera, which shows wear very easily, would be considered a professional unit. Most Professional Photographers typically hammer their equipment. Most of the black SRTs that are found today, are in very poor cosmetic condition, with scratches and brassing. The chrome units, hold up much better, in heavy professional use. The label, Professional, is more a measure of the Photographer than the Camera, anyway. Much has been said, about Minolta never breaking into the professional market. I doubt that it really troubled them much however, since there are a lot more amateurs and wannabes, out there, than professionals. How many people do you know that actually make their living taking pictures?

Update:An interested reader has provided some new information on the reason for the Black-Body cameras. He states that reflections from a chrome camera can be troublesome when photographing reflective or semi reflective subjects. One other plus for a black body camera, is that they are less noticible by human subjects in Candid shots.

Buying SRTs

The very Collectible Minolta SRT series cameras are widely available and represent good value as a usable 35mm camera. Knowing what to look for in these models can save you disappointment and expense. What follows, is a list of some known problems that SRTs can develop over time, with explanations and/or fixes.

SRT Problems;

Sticking or Inoperable Meter, The meter movements on the SRTs rarely if ever actually fail. Always check the battery connections for corrosion or dirt. Most common sticky meter problems are because the needle stops have degraded and turned to goo. The stops are made of urethane foam and after years of exposure to ozone or tobacco smoke, get real sticky and fall apart. The same material is used for the seals for the camera back. This can be repaired, but best left to a camera shop.

Inaccurate Meter Readings, The SRT metering system uses two CdS cells mounted to the pentaprism to obtain correct exposure information. Again, battery type and condition have everything to do with meter accuracy. The CdS cells are pretty much bullet-proof and rarely fail themselves. These CdS cells are actually cemented to smaller prisms and then to the pentaprism. The cement used for this purpose, can crystallize and darken with age and can even detach. If one or both cells have separated, low light readings will result. To check the function of the cells, you need to check for two peaks in the meter deflection, one just above the center of the focus screen and one just below. The cells and prisms can be cleaned with acetone and re-cemented with clear epoxy. The repair requires disassembly of the upper part of the camera.

Sticking Shutter Curtains, If the shutter curtains stick or hesitate at any speed, a CLA (Cleaning, Lubrication and Adjustment) is needed. The shutter curtain bearings can become dry or the springs for them can lose their tension.

Sticking or Stuck Mirror, The SRT series has a foam stop or cushion at the top if the mirror chamber to lessen the noise produced, and the shock to the delicate mirror when it closes. This foam cushion can become sticky with age and cause the mirror to stay in the up position or delay return. A clue to this condition is foam residue on the forward part of the mirror. Repairing this condition is a simple process of replacing the foam. The foam is available from suppliers and not a difficult repair for the mechanically adept. Believe it or not, SRTs have been taken to the shop with a "stuck mirror" when all that was wrong, was the mirror lock lever was on.

Dirty Mirror, Seeing a big fingerprint or other debris on the mirror, looks easy to clean off. It is not that easy, since the mirror is the "front surface" type. This means that the front surface of the mirror is coated with a very thin aluminum deposit. If the smudge has been there a long time or someone tried to clean it with a rag, it's probably a hopeless condition. Careful cleaning, using a Q-tip moistened with Denatured Alcohol and light pressure, can bring most mirrors back to near original condition. Use very light pressure and repeat as needed. Most of the debris on the mirror will probably be degraded foam from the mirror cushion. Repace the cushion first. If the mirror is not too dirty, it is hardly noticeable in the view finder. It can make the image appear a little darker. The mirror, regardless of condition, of course has no effect on the image on film.

Shutter Does Not Fire, This can be caused by bent or broken linkage in the release mechanism. Since the SRT is a totally mechanical camera, electronics are not an issue, as they are in later models. It may fire at some speeds and not others. Most qualified technicians can repair this condition but not cheaply.

Light Leaks, Most light leaks on a SRT are from degraded foam light seals in the back of the body. A clue to this problem is sticky residue on the camera back where it seals with the body. Again this seal material is available and not too difficult to replace.

Film not Advancing, This problem can be as simple as a bent linkage or a failure of the film transport clutch mechanism. SRTs with this problem are best left alone or purchased only for parts.

Missing Film Advance Lever Tip, Missing this part is strictly a cosmetic issue and in no way harms function. I am not aware of replacement parts of this type being available except from a "parts camera". It is best to replace the whole advance arm but you can glue (epoxy) a tip on if you have the black body SRT.

Aperture Ring Loose or Jammed, The ring around the lens mount with a pin on it is the way that the camera communicates the lens opening to the metering system. This is done by a cord and series of pulleys. The cord is attached to the ring at one end and the meter movement at the other. The cord can be broken, or off of one of it's pulleys or separated from the ring or the meter itself. Sticking or jamming of this ring can be because dirt has made it's way into the ring recess and would need a simple cleaning and very light lubrication.

Minolta MC vs MD Lens

Some confusion still exists between the Minolta MC and MD lens mounts. I'll try to clear the air without adding any more confusion. The first Minolta SLRs, the SR series, used lenses that were incapable of supplying their set aperture to the camera since these models didn't have internal meters. With the introduction of the SRT series with a through-the-lens metering system, this aperture information was required. All SRTs were sold with the MC (meter-coupled) lenses that had a (MC) tab on the aperture ring that moved a pin on the front of the camera that was tied to the meter. This arrangement allowed the metering system to compensate for the set aperture even when the lens was wide open prior to shooting. The MC lenses work for all SRTs and for manual mode and the aperture-priority modes of the later X series.

The introduction of the XD-ll , and the later X-700, with a shutter-priority and program mode, required a way of communicating their lens's smallest possible aperture to the camera. Minolta added a second tab, known as the MD tab, to it's lenses. The MD tab has no adverse effect on the non-shutter-priority SRTs and X series cameras. The only cameras that really require the MD tab are the XD models, when shooting in shutter-priority mode. Even though the X-700 is advertised to require the MD lenses in program mode. This is simply not true. The X-700 will work with a MC lens in program mode using the aperture you set as the minimum lens opening regardless of which one you set, as long as it is in the range required. It will then set to anywhere between the set aperture and the maximum of the lens. In other words, the MC lenses work on all Minolta Manual focus SLRs and the MD lenses are only really required on the XD models for full operation. Therefore;

MD lenses work correctly, with all SR, SRT and X series cameras in all modes.MC lenses work correctly, with all SR and SRT and X series cameras, except on the XD model cameras when used in shutter-priority mode.All of this is good news since the Minolta MC Lenses are every bit as good optically and mechanically as the MD Lenses, some may even be better. Typically MC lenses are more widely available, and less expensive on the used market.Bottom Line; Unless you have an XD Model, you only need a MC Type lens, save some money and get a quality lens, to boot.

Disclaimer: This info was originally published between 2002-2004 on Dick Sullivan's site and copied from web.archive.org for my own safekeeping.
https://web.archive.org/web/20060113165941/http://home.pcisys.net/%7Erlsnpjs/minolta/toc.html#toc